In order to make the plywood construction ready for installation underneath the cockpit, the parts are individually sanded and painted with polyester resin. The lists to support the construction are secured with strips of fiberglass, when hardened they are ready for epoxy paint and installation…
The stringers are painted with polyester resin, when hardened they will be glued to the hull with thickened polyester resin and secured with strips of fiberglass.
A few weeks ago I formed the first step for the wheel steering from mahogany, this was ready to be mounted in the hull with fiberglass – however, I could’t find the specifications for the wire blocks? How strong? How much load from the wire?
To come up with a solution were I knew the exact specification of the wire blocks, I needed to construct a new ‘first’ step to the wheel steering! This was a better solution in many ways, easier to maintain and service, and easier to repair and chance spare parts! This is perfect, when doing things complicated – but simple!
Two pieces of mahogany formed to lead water between them to the bilge, glued to the hull with thickened polyester resin and secured with strips of fiberglass! Later comes the sanding…!?!
(In picture you can also see the stringers are secured with thickened polyester resin and fiberglass)
To save future shipping cost I ordered three A2 filters and four P3 (R) filters, this will grant me plenty of hours in the boat, working with the fiberglass, grinder and sander…
A2 filters protects from acid and gas, and the P3 filters protects from dust and particles in the highest level…
Yesterday I pre-mounted the stringers underneath the cockpit, made them ready for action today! With thickened polyester resin I ‘welded’ the stringers to the hull, sanded and secured them with wide strips of fiberglass…
In the workshop I’m working on the platform to the water tank and the section/wall between the compartments of holding tank and water tank.
I have been informed about my mask and how it’s not protecting enough. The 3M mask is excellent, but not for the work I’m doing on the boat. This is not safe for my health, the solution was to by new and better! It’s in the mail already!
All fittings, thru hull’s, seacock’s etc. on the sailboat are installed in reinforced composite, safety first! They are all tested in situations for maximum stress and they have perfect exam results. The manufacturer TruDesign Plastics are located in New Zealand, but have distributors worldwide.
The complete (almost!?) set of composite fittings are shown in the picture, it’s a labyrinth of numbers, size, installation, valves, angles etc.
All the interior of the sailboat are remade into a new and modern design, in this process all light sources are installed only with LED, to keep the consumption on the battery bank as low as possible!
Beneath the cockpit, in the installation compartment’s SMD LED ropes will be installed. The cold white light are placed to give optimal insight in the compartment’s. Red light for night sailing and soft white for the saloon, galley, head etc.
The SMD LED ropes are cut in length’s at 50 centimeters and are waterproff if sealed, this makes them perfect for light source in the storage compartment’s in the cockpit…
While waiting for the temperature to get right for working with the fiberglass, other projects are finished. Today I have cleaned the workshop, really cleaned! I emtied boxes with old stuff from the previous boat owner, boxes that’s been put away since I bought the sailboat. Treasures was found! Yeah! I found the original plate with the hull number! I didn’t even knew it existed, so I’m very glad to have found the plate…
I cleaned and prepped the workshop in a way to construct a dust safe cabin within, to paint etc. This was a great deal and took half a day!?
The harsh weather during the winter were doing nothing good to the tarps over the construction to protect the open sailboat from rain and snow! Now fresh tarps are put on and it looks great, no wind, no rain and lots of bright light inside for working. The old tarps was worn-down and I had to diassemble all the interior every time I left the boat, not very productive!
Sometimes I have plans, plans in construction of the interior of the boat, but these are not allways the best. One of the first plans I made was to keep the stern starboard berth and construct a new berth in the stern port bench under the cockpit. This was a good plan at the time, however the project ended up with needs for the space in the port cockpit bench.
Unfortunately I removed the hatch long time ago, now I need to rebuild another hatch. Restoring the past so to say…
On the picture you can see the mock-up model being hold in place by two strips of plywood.
In order to get the plywood construction underneath the cockpit finished, the base for the first step on the cable management for the whell steering needs to be made. This step are made from mahogany and cut in many odd angles, with a bridge to let drainage (water) pass under. The ‘wings’ on the step are made to secure it with fiberglass…
(…and yes, all the plywood construction is removed again!)
Building below the cockpit and the port bench, is very difficult, due to little space and many angles, curves etc. I’ve used large quantities of cardboard, to cut and shape the plywood correct – the first time! This is the intend, but the construction chances in the process and several pieces of plywood are made over again!
I’ve made the compartment for the waste tank (holding tank) below the port bench, with a hatch on top. There are a place for the compressor (refrigerator) and waste hoses, with space enough for several anti-siphon valves. (Vented loop)
The Jabsco toilet are set in the constrution to make sure the toilet lid can open beneath the port bench. The Jabsco marine toilet with regular bowl (large) are to be installed when the head cabin are done.
I the last post you could read and see the latest progress on the head cabin and the stringer that supports the watertank. It was a well done construction, but the angle on the watertank was off, this would have resulted in a large pocket of air in the top side of the watertank. Not good if 5-10 procent of the volume in the tank was lost to nothing!
To lower the angle on the watertank, I needed to construct new stringers and this was taking time! Using cardboard, tape and scissors, I slowly began to build up the new construction. On the pictures you can see the ‘simple’ construction and the stern wall of the head cabin. All the stringers has cut out
acces and the backplate (stern wall) has multiple service accesses. One large service hatch, one medium hatch to install the 3-way toilet fitting (switch between outlet to waste tank or outlet to ocean) and one small hatch to the waste hose and water inlet.